










^ 





















<?5°^ 



*?«. c" 
-^^0^ i* 



••/ *«>--3^\/ "o^*^-*/ **^''.-..'^ 



.j^^«. 



INTERESTING NARRATIVE; 



BEING A 



JOURNAL OF THE FLIGHT 



OF 



ALFRED E. MATHEWS, 
. OF STAEK CO., OHIO. 

FEOM THE STATE OF TEXAS, ON THE 20TH OP APRIL, AND HIS 
ARRIVAL AT CHICAGO ON THE 28tH OF MAY, AFTER TRAVERS- 
ING ON FOOT AND ALONE A DISTANCE OF OVER 800 MILES 
ACROSS THE STATES OF LOUISIANA, ARKANSAS AND 
MISSOURI, BY THE MOST UNFREQUENTED ROUTES ; 
TOGETHER WITH INTERESTING DESCRIPTIONS 
OF MEN AND THINGS ; OF WHAT HE SAW 
AND HEARD ; APPEARANCE OF THE 
^¥^Bg;/> ,%«I»BI"T'S* OPj ^ #E 
PEOPLE, AC, AC, &C. 



1861. 



\.r 



INTRODUCTION. 



TO THE PUBLIC. 



The undersigned, at the solicitation of many friends, has been 

induced to publish an account of his exodus from the South after 

the breaking out of the war between the United States and the 

so called Confederate States. In doing so, his object has been 

mainly to subserve the cause of truth and justice, and with no 

feelings of revenge or ill will towards those at whose hands he 

has severely suffered on account of a local prejudice. He will 

therefore give a "round unvarnished tale." composed of facts, 

and leave each reader to draw his own conclusions therefrom. 

And if, in these few pages, his object is accomplished, he will be 

more than compensated for the sufferings endured and the labor 

performed. 

Alfred E. Mathews. 

Jaly, 1861. 






.A- J'CyTJFLlSrJk.X^ 



OF THE FLIGHT OP 



ALFRED E. MATHEWS FROM TEXAS. 



For more than one year previous to the close of the year 1860, 
I had been residing in Tuskaloosa county, Alabama ; and when 
the secession movement broke out, was teaching school in the 
northern part of the county. At that time a few of the leading 
secessionists of the place, (New Lexington,) met and organized 
a military company to defend the rights of the South, as they 
said. My name was put on the list without consulting me, and 
I was then informed that it was my duty to assist in " defending 
the rights of the South," and that if I did not comply, I would 
be tried by a court-martial, and fined not less than five dollars for 
each time I refused or neglected to attend drill. I deemed it 
best to submit at first, until I could leave, and " mustered " with 
them during the first two regular drills. The company consisted 
of about seventy-five men ; and would make good soldiers under 
competent officers, if they all kept sober, which was not the case. 
The captain was the only officer who did not get too drunk to 
walk straight or talk sensibly ; so that matters were pretty badly 
mixed up, and I think I knew about as much at the end of the 
last drill as I did before commencing, which was doubtless the 
case with nearly all the rest of them. The captain was a fine 



8 
officer, and had some military experience, but the men did not 
pay strict attention, nor were they under proper discipline. 

I was one of the clerks of the election in the precinct of New 
Lexington to elect commissioners to the Montgomery convention, 
to vote for or against the secession ordinance. The election was 
quietly and fairly conducted, and a majority of the votes cast 
were for the Union candidates. All the Union candidates that 
were elected throughoi^t the State were slaveholders, and many 
of them voted for secession in the convention. 

I had been in the habit of taking a walk every morning after 
breakfast, and on Friday, December 28th, started as usual to 
walk, bat continued it somewhat longer than on ordinary occa- 
sions ; in fact I kept on walking until I got out of the State ; 
but in doing so, was obliged to leave all the property I had ac- 
quired while in the South, besides not being able to get the 
school money due me, as* it was proposed to appropriate the 
school fund for military purposes. About noon it commenced 
raining, and continued all afternoon and night, causing the 
streams to overflow the low bottom lands in many places as much 
as three feet ; so that the next day, Saturday, I had much deep 
water to wade through, which not only impeded my progress, but 
made traveling extremely unpleasant. 

While passing a planter's house in the northern part of Pick- 
ens county, on Saturday morning, the owner, followed by a young 
man, (his son, no doubt,) came out and stopped me. He ques- 
tioned me closely ; asking where I was from and which way I 
was going. I told him I was from Tuskaloosa county, and go- 
ing to Columbus. He found I was well acquainted with that 
part of the South, and with many of the citizens of Tuskaloosa, 
and supposed me to be a Southern man. I got a drink of water 
and resumed my journey. 

I regarded it as a lucky accident that I found places to stay at 
night. On Saturday night I stopped at the house of a portly 
planter, a secessionist, (of course I did not let him know my 
politics or destination,) from whom I learned that a gentleman in 
his neighborhood, who had been there some time teaching sing- 
ing school, was seized, since the secession excitement, by the 
Becessionists, who accused him of being a Northern man, and 



9 
were about to administer some severe punishment for the crime ; 
but he declared he was from Tennessee, and said he could get • 
letters from there to prove he was a good Southern man, which 
he did, and was not further molested. 

At that time it was everywhere unpleasant, and in many places 
dangerous in the country, for Northern men to live, unless they 
had become identified with the people ; but in the large towns 
and cities this did not seem to be the case, especially if they were 
engaged in some business. But Northern teachers and agents, 
more especially if new comers, were at all times objects of sus- 
picion ; while Northern mechanics were free from this inconve- 
nience. 

On Saturday night and Sunday morning there was a severe 
snow storm from the north. Traveling through mud, water and 
snow, I reached Columbus, Mississippi, on Sunday morning, and 

stopped at Cady's Hotel. On Monday I applied to Mr. , 

the editor of a secession paper, for a situation in his office. He 
no doubt considered the fact of my applying for a situation in a 
secession office good proof that I was a secessionist. He was 
very glad to have my services, and never questioned my politics. 
I resolved to stay no longer than necessary to get money suf- 
ficient to take me out of the " Southern Confederacy," as it was 
then called. 

Columbus is one of the largest cities in Mississippi, and is a 
beautiful place ; many of the private residences are quite hand- 
some. Indeed it is only in and near the large towns and cities of 
the South that one sees taste and neatness displayed in the dwell- 
ing houses. The city of Columbus is in reality owned by the 
township and not by private individuals. It is located on a 
school section, and the trustees have not the power to sell, but 
only to lease to builders ; and yet there are many persons there who 
have built dwellings who do not understand the nature of the 
piece of paper called a deed, they get in exchange for their money. 

The office in which I was engaged, was head quarters for the 
leading secessionists of Columbus, and I had an excellent oppor- 
innity of hearing and seeing all that was going on among them, 
and of knowing their sentiments and expectations. At that time 
;it was the prevailing opioion throughout the South, that they 



10 

would be assisted ia their scheme of rebellion, by many of the 
Northern people. 

Colonel , a wealthy secessionist, of more influence perhaps 

than any other man in Colmmbus, came up to the office one night 
much excited, and told the editor that two New York drummers 
had just arrived in the city that day, and that he had intended 
to have given them a coat of tar and feathers, but while collect- 
ing a company for that purpose, they made their escape. The 
crime they were guilty of was trying to collect of Columbus mer- 
chants debts due to New York wholesale houses. 

There were a great many Northern men in Columbus ; some 
of ihem had been residing in the place a number of years. One 

night some of the leading secessionists, including Col. , 

met in the office, and while there discussed the propriety of " run- 
ning the Yankees out of town." The offence of which they were 
guilty, was not taking part in the rebelion. The secessionists did 
not then come to a conclusion in reference to the matter. The 
feeling against Northern people was not as severe at that time as 
it has since become. 

Business was very dull in Columbus. Many of the white me- 
chanics had nothing to do, and there was a great deal of suffer- 
ing among them. Most of what little work was to be done was 
given to negro mechanics. An intelligent carpenter, an ac- 
quaintance of one of the persons in the office where I was en- 
gaged, came up one day and told his friend that his family were 
suffering for provisions ; he had no money, and could not get 
work at anything. He assured me this was the case with others 
of his acquaintance. 

Up to this time, Columbus furnished four companies of soldiers; 
most of them had gone to Ft. Pickens, and the rest left for that 
place soon after I arrived. These were some of the finest equipped 
and drilled rebels I saw in the South, and yet they would not 
compare with most of our soldiers. 

I remained here but a few weeks ; and as it was still mid-win- 
ter, did not consider it advisable to return northward until spring. 
Not thinking at the time that Texas would secede, I determined 
to go there and remain at least until spring ; and accordingly 
.took passage on a Mobile boat, on my way to that State. On 



11 

reaching Mobile I found a packet just ready to leave for New 
Orleans, on which I took passage, and arrived in that city at an 
early hour the following morning, Tuesday, 12th, and immediately 
procured a boarding house, intending to remain a few days. 

While in New Orleans, I witnessed an interesting celebration. 
All the Military were out, and they had what every one said waa 
a great military parade. At night the city was beautifully illu- 
minated ; and an artillery company was posted at the foot of one 
of the principal streets, and displayed their skill by firing cannon 
in quick succession. 

There was great distress among the laboring classes of the city 
even at this early stage of the rebellion. Immense quantities of 
corn, flour, pork, &c., were daily arriving from the North, and 
being shipped to different parts of the South, and stored in ware- 
houses in the city. Thousands of bushels of grain, and large 
stacks of bacon, were piled up along the levee, which gradually 
disappeared to give place to other piles equally as large. 

In the cotton states everj; thing seems to be neglected but cot- 
ton. Grain, fruit and vegetables receive but little attention ; 
partly, no doubt, because the climate is unfavorable, and partly 
because the people are too negligent and dilatory to take the 
trouble that would be necessary. This year they are making 
preparations to put out more corn than usual. The most marked 
difference between this country and the North, is the absence of 
grass and clover. We here miss the fields of grass and grain, 
that are so beautiful during spring and summer in the Northern 
States. 

After remaining in New Orleans one week I took a Red River 
packet for Texas, and lauded at Shreveport, La., on the 24th 
of February, and went over to Carthage, Texas, fifty miles from 
Shreveport, and engaged in business. The country was more 
quiet than a few weeks before, and continued so for some time. 

Eastern Texas has mostly a loose, white, sandy soil, with a 
heavy growth of yellow pine, and is said to be quite productive 
in places ; but its richness is not very lasting. The land along 
Trinity river, and some other large streams, is of a much better 
quali^'^. No grass or clover, either wild or tame, thrives in this 
part '. ? Texas ; and the cattle feed entirely on browse ; on this 



12 

account they require a wide range, and frequently stray off and 
are lost. A bitter weed, resembling grass at a short distance, 
grows here very plentifully, upon which cows feed, making their 
milk taste like quinine. The butter, however, does not partake 
of this taste. In western Texas the prairie grass affords excel- 
lent pasture, and here stock raising is quite profitable ; but this 
kind of grass soon dies out when much trampled upon by cattle, 
and no other kind will grow in this latitude. 

I saw but very few apple and peach, and no other fruit trees ; 
they do not succeed well here. Grapes are the only kind of fruit 
that can be cultivated with profit, and the cultivation of them is 
altogether neglected. 

Garden vegetables will not grow here, or else their cultivation 
is entirely ignored. Perhaps both causes contribute to banish 
them from the table. 

In southern and central Texas, cotton is the only profitable 
crop ; in northern Texas, wheat does well. Last year there was 
an entire failure of corn and wheat, and not more than one-fourth 
of a crop of cotton "made;" so that the State was drained of 
money to purchase provisions. There was comparatively no 
money in the country—no circulating medium ; business was car- 
ried on by making " arrangements." Dry seasons are of frequent 
occurrence in Texas. 

I was one afternoon conversing with one of the editors of the 
Carthage paper, when a thin visaged man came in and remained 
a few minutes to transact some business about his subscription. 
He had scarcely got out of hearing when the editor commenced 
laughing hearti y. I asked him what was the fun ; he told me 
that the gentleman who had just gone out, was a minister of the 
gospel, and that he was very much troubled with the dyspepsia, 
and always carried a paper of soda to take a little to relieve him; 
that last summer he went down into Shelby county, and as he 
«xpected to stop a few days, took a large paper of soda with him ; 
and while there, being a stranger, he was arrested by a vigilance 
committee. On searching him they found this soda, and sup- 
posing it to be poison with which he intended to poison their 
wells, they made him eat every bit of it. Of course so large a 
dose made the poor fellow very sick. 



13 

When the news of the bombardment of Fort Sumter reached 
Texas, the feeling against Northern men became very bitter; and 
it was not only very unpleasant, but dangerous for Northern men 
to remain in the country. All those who were not for them, 
were considered against them. I immediately resolved to leave 
Carthage, intending to go to Galveston, and there take a vessel 
to New York. Many of the stage routes in that part of Texas 
were discontinued, and I had at least to commence the journey 
on foot. 

Saturdny, April 20th, 1861. Started at rather a late hour, 
taking the road to Henderson. After leaving the immediate 
vicinity of Carthage, I traveled through a continuous forest, un- 
til within three miles of Henderson. Stop to-night at a planter's 
house two miles east of that town. Distance traveled, 25 miles. 

Sunday, 21st. — As there is no Sunday for travelers in Texas, 
I continued my journey. Henderson was the first town I came 
to after leaving Carthage. This is one of the towns in eastern 
Texas that was burned last summer, as they said, by Northern 
Abolitionists, but in reality by their own people. Before 
the fire Henderson was a handsome town, beautifully located ; 
but now all the best part is in ruins. Here, while contemplating 
these ruins, I could not help thinking of the flagrant outrage 
committed by the Southern press and people, against the North. 
All of the numerous insurrections that occur in the South, are 
charged against the Northern people; and yet, in nearly every 
instance they are instigated by their own people, in revenge for 
wrongs they endure on account of slavery. I have seen white 
mechanics obliged to stand aside while their families were suffer- 
ing for the necessaries of life, when negro mechanics, owned by 
rich and influential men, could get plenty of work ; and I have 
heard these same white mechanics breathe the most bitter curses 
against the institution of slavery and the slave aristocracy. Is 
it a wonder there are so many negro insurrections in the sonth? 

After leaving Henderson, the country is very thinly inhabited ; 
and here I find it necessary to "camp out " at night, building a 
fire by which to keep warm ; for, however warm it may be during 
the day, the nights are always cool in Texas, especially this time 
of the year, ^s I am unused to labor or violent exercise, it is 



14 

advisable not to tax myself too much at first. Camp on' a bill 
in the west part of Rusk county. Distance traveled, 17 miles. 

Monday, 22d. — The soil to-day appears richer than that I 
passed over the two days previous ; and near the middle of the 
day the road led through a small settlement, with some good 
sized plantations. The cattle I saw in the forest were as wild 
as the deer that darted across my p-ath. They will not allow 
any one to approach them unless on horseback. Camp to-nigh6 
in a pleasant valley 21 miles from last camping place. 

Tuesday, 23d.— The streams in this part of Texas are not very 
large or numerous. Most of the timber is yellow pine. While 
crossing a swamp a large black snake came bounding over logg 
and under-brash directly towards me, I struck it with a stout 
stick while in the act of springing, after which it was soon dis- 
patched. It was, doubtless, in pnrsuit of something when I 
crossed its path ; for I frequently see serpents of different kinds, 
and they aearly always try to avoid me. Distance traveled, 19 
miles. 

Wednesday 24th.— To-day most of the timber is yellow pine 
of a very fine growth. Reached Palestine late at night, and 
stopped at the Hunter house. I had provided myself with cold 
meat and bread before starting, some of which is still left. The 
people here are very much excited over the President's Procla- 
mation, which they have just received. 

While traveling through this country I have been frequently 
stopped and questioned ; and it becomes quite apparent that 
further southward, in that part of the country occupied by large 
plantations, I will run some risk. For this reason it is advisable 
forme to alter my course. Self-constituted vigilance committees 
are numerous, who make it their business to stop travelers and 
hang Union men. As yet, no cases of violence have come to my 
knowledge, but the threats against Union men are loud and ter- 
rible. It is only by exercising great prudence and courage that 
Northern men can travel through their neighborhoods, which are 
so seldom visited by strangers. On the large public thorough- 
fares this inconvenience and danger is not felt ; but the deranged 
condition of affairs is the cause of greatly increasing the fare ; 
and Iq some instances, on the lower Mississippi jiver, travelers' 



15 
have been made to pay their fare two or three times over. The 
high rates make it impossible for me to avail myself of any other 
mode of traveling other than on foot, even should the opportunity 
offer. But I am several hundred miles from the Mississippi river, 
and nearly as far from the Gulf, and still farther from a railroad 
leading Northward ; and by going to either, would be obliged to 
travel through the most dangerous part of the country. The 
safest and most practicable route for me to take in order to reach 
the free States, is by way of the wilderness of Louisiana, Arkan- 
sas and Missouri, which must be performed on foot. 

It is an easy matter for persons who sympathize with the 
South, and have letters of recommendation from some of their 
friends here to travel in this country ; and this is the case with 
aearly all the travelers of Northern birth. 

In taking this route, it will be nacessary for me to retrace my 
steps, passing through Shreveport ; but I will do so by another 
route that is less dangerous, as it will lead through that part of 
eastern Texas inhabited principally by Spaniards and Mexicans. 

Thursday, 25th, — The country over which I traveled to-day 
was uninhabited for miles ; a great deal of the soil is sandy and 
barren. The trees are principally yellow pine and oak of a small 
size. Here I saw many very beautiful varieties of wild flowers ; 
brilliant in color, and delicate in texture. They surpass anything 
of the kind I have ever before seen. Stay to-night at a farm 
house or cabin eight miles from Crockett. Distance traveled 32 
miles. Most of the way I was obliged to walk through deep 
sand, and am very much fatigued in consequence. 

Friday, 26th. — This morning reached Crockett about 10 o'clock. 
This is the county seat of Houston county and is a small but neat 
town. Most of the people were at church, listening to a seces- 
sion speech in favor of raising funds to buy horses, clothing, &c., 
for a company of rangers of that county. I remained here only a 
few minutes, and then took the Nacogdoches road. For the first 
few miles after leaving Crockett, the country was partially 
cultivated. Towards evening it rained quite hard ; and after 
walking two miles in the rain and mud, I stopped at the residence 
of a farmer in pretty good circumstances. He owns a saw and 
grist mill, and quite a large tract of land, together with a great 



16 
many cattle. The house is a small cabin, built of round logs, 
without a single window; the only place to admit light, besides 
the door, (which is always open winter or summer,) is a small 
loop-hole near the mud chimney. A sort of shed is attached to 
it that serves for a bed room. The furniture consists of little 
else than a few broken split-bottom chairs and a very rickety ta- 
ble. Two or three half naked and very dirty children are playing 
in the ashes of the ample fire-place. Everything is in the great- 
est disorder, and extremely filthy. The table was in keeping 
with the rest. But this is only a description of the manner in 
which many of the people iu the South and South West live. 
They endure great inconvenience on account of the unfavorable 
nature of the climate : it being difScult to keep meat, bread, pas- 
try, fruits, milk, butter, etc. On this account they are deprived 
of most of the little necessaries and luxuries of the table, which 
are so common in the North; and they do not even attempt to 
keep bread, meat, pastry or sauce, from one meal to the other. 
Cellars would be of no use, being too damp and warm. People 
living in cities accessible by steamboats, can have the benefit of 
ice, and the wealthy classes there live much better ; but too 
little attention is everywhere paid to those small household com- 
forts and conveniences which contribute so much to the health 
and enjoyment of the family. The famishing and adornment of 
the house is as much neglected as are the necessaries and luxu- 
ries of the table. Distance traveled 2T miles. 

Saturday, 21th, — To-day I had considerable mud and water to 
wade through in the low lands, and experienced some delay in 
crossing small streams that are very high from last night's rain. 
In the afternoon passed some fine plantations, and a small village 
in the south-eastern part of Rusk county. Stop to-night at Mr. 

W 's a person of wealth and popularity. His residence is 

the finest I have seen in Texas. From conversation with Mrs. 
W, I infer they are opposed to the war. Just before supper, two 
rebel soldiers came for the purpose of inducing his son to join 
their company. Tliey used every argument to induce him to 
consent to join them, but without effect, for his father could not 
well spare him. He said the Democrats had brought about the 
war, and ought to do all the fighting. They at last said he was 



17 

a coward; this was touching him in a tender spot, and he no 
longer refused to go with them, In this way many young men 
are forced to join the rebel ranks, who do not think the war a 
just one on the part of the South. 24 miles. 

Sunday, 28th. — I got an early start, for as there was no chance 
of getting breakfast before 8 or 9 o'clock, I left without it. One 
mile from Mr. W's, I crossed a large creek by the ferry, but had 
to wade in mud and water for some distance through the swamp 
after crossing. To-day a Spanish gentleman invited mo to take 
dinner with him. There was much more neatness and taste dis- 
played in and about his residence, and the house itself was bet- 
ter furnished than any other I have been inside of during my 
sojourn here ; and the table, too, was better provided for. The 
ladies of his household were quite intelligent, refined and polite. 
The old gentleman seemed very much depressed by the sad con- 
dition the secessionists had brought the country to. He said bat 
little. It was here I first learned with delight, of the unanimous 
Union sentiment in the North. 

In the afternoon reached Nacogdoches, and spent an hour 
there. It is a small but neat town, and is inhabited princi- 
pally by Spaniards and Mexicans, as is also the county, which 
has the same name. An attempt was here made to raise a vol- 
unteer company, but without success. It is a strong Union 
county. The Spanish residents I find are courteous and gentle- 
manly ; their houses, too, are more comfortable than the Ameri- 
cans, and their gardens are arranged with better taste. They 
seem better prepared to enjoy the comforts of home. Disunion 
finds little encouragement among them. Last month a disastrous 
flood swept away much valuable property in the county. In 
some instances, I am told, entire plantations were carried off or 
permanently injured by being in many place covered with gravel. 
Texas is noted for dry summers and seyere storms. Put up to- 
night at a small farm house, after wading through sand ankle- 
deep, for a distance of four miles. 23 miles. 

Monday, 29th. The country to-day was uninhabited, and the 
soil poor. Towards evening, however, I reached a settlement, 
and stopped at an early hour. I found great difficulty in keeping 
the right direction, as it was cloudy and there was no road to 



18 
guide me during most of the way. It seems I missed the road 
usually traveled, which is quite dim. Wild flowers were nume- 
rous in variety, and very beautiful. I tried to get the seed of a 
few kinds, but found non<e ripe. Distance traveled, 28 miles. 

Tuesday, 30th. — The country is still very thinly inhabited. 
Was very sick to-day, and had to lie down in the pine forest most 
of the afternoon, and suffered for want of water ; but in the eve- 
ning got up and walked four miles to a farm house where I am 

stopping for the night. Mr. T. , the gentleman who lives 

here, keeps a small store, which is on the opposite side of the 
road. He is apparently wealthy, and owns two plantations. 
His brother I have before heard of aa one of the wealthiest men 
in eastern Texas. I had a long conversation with Mr. T. He 
says he read Mr. Lincoln's Message, and had no fault to find 
with it ; he would as soon live under his Administration as any 
other; and thinks the present attitude of the South uncalled for. 
He conversed with me freely because I had also expressed Union 
sentiments. Nearly all the persons with whom I have staid for 
the last few nights I judge to be Union men. 15 miles. 

Wednesday, May 1st. — The road to-day was through a richer 
part of the country, and pretty thickly inhabited for Texas. 
Crossed the Louisiana line in the afternoon, and to night stop at 
a plantation residence 21 miles south-west of Shreveport. Bain 
most of the afternoon. Distance traveled, 25 miles. 

Tuesday, 2d. Rain continued during the fore part of the day, 
I reached Shreveport about 3 o'clock. Business in this city is 
entirely prostrated ; many of the stores and other places of busi- 
ness are closed, and it seems like a city of mourning. Numbers 
of the people here, as in other parts of the South, seem appalled 
at the effects of secession. Six rebel companies have left this 
place ; most of the men, however, were from the country around, 
and from some of the counties in Texas. Their destination, I 
am told, is Virginia, where Southern troops are collecting, they 
eaid, to "take Washington." I find great enthusiasm in the 
Southern rebellion, existing among church members in localities 
where there are large plantations and many slaves. 

Crops everywhere look promising ; corn is said to be out of 
(danger, although it is yet quite small. I here crossed Red Eir- 



19 

€f, and my way is up that stream, The soil in this bottom is Tery 
rich, and the plantations are large. Corn here is unusually 
promising, and is abont two feet high. More of it was planted 
than usual. Cotton is just up. I saw several large "gangs" of 
slaves in the fields at work ; some of the women were quadroons, 
and were quite pretty. I found it impossible to get the privilege 
of staying at any of the plantations, or even to get anything ta 
eat, although I have money to pay for either. The air tonight 
is very damp and chilly, and the ground wet in consequence of 
the rain. The dead drift along the river banks emits an unpleas- 
ant odor. I am without matches, and will have to do without 
a fire. Stop for the night seven miles from Shreveport. The 
ground is very muddy. Distance, traveled, 28 miles. 

Friday, 3d. — Last night I had to lie shivering (for sleep was 
out of the question) without a fire ; and so I got up this morning 
about 1 or 2 o'clock and resumed my walk on the levee. Long 
before there was any sign of daylight I could see the torches 
moving about in the negro quarters ; the drivers were arousing 
the slaves to go to their work. I tried again to purchase some- 
thing to eat, but without success, and had to make up for the 
deficiency by drinking bad water. Late in the day I found a 
small tavern in the forest, where I got a meal. While there the 
landlady amused me by reciting the news afloat in the neighbor- 
hood. She told me with great earnestness, that Mr. Lincoln 
kept himself shut up in an iron cage and did not allow any 
one but Mrs. Lincoln and Mr. Seward to see him, because, she 
said, he was afraid of being killed. She told me also, that the 
United States army was coming down for the purpose of liber- 
ating their slaves, but she felt confident they would be completely 
whipped. She told me many other things concerning the 
Northern people, that were equally as absurd, all of which she 
firmly believed herself. Towards night I succeeded in getting a 
little coarse, musty corn meal, and made some cakes and baked 
them in the ashes of my camp-fire ; they are not very palatable, 
even to a hungry traveler. Reached the high lands where the 
soil is poor and country uninhabited. Camp, 32 miles from last. 

There is a pool of cool, clear water near my camp, formed by 
a small brook, overshadowed and darkened by dense foliage, 



20 
where I was bathinc!: my feet without at fifst noticing; a serpent 
with open mouth, and large fangs, that was coiled up within three 
feet. I had a stick near, with which I wounded it in the head, 
leaving it apparently dead. It was of a dusky brown color, and 
had a large flat liead. I will examine it in the morning, when 
lighter. 

Saturday 4th. — I was awakened this morning by the rain 
falling on my face. It continued raining most of the day, oblig- 
ing me to wade through a great deal of water in low places. 
The snake I left for . dead yesterday evening, was gone. 
Purchased a pound of sugar for 20 cts., and a few alraonds, at a 
place called Conway ; nothing else to be had. The town con- 
sisted of a store and a deserted black-smith shop. Camp in a 
piney-forest ; trees of a very large size. Distance 27 miles. 

The wild beasts howl unusually loud to-night, around my camp. 
They are, no doubt, catamounts and wolves ; but they will not 
venture near enough to the fire for me to tell. In this wilderness 
are also a few bears and panthers, but they are seldom seen. 
How I wish I possessed the skill of a poet that I might aptly de* 
scribe the wild grandeur of the scene. I feel more security here 
than when in the aettled parts of the country, and can lie down 
by a blazing fire and sleep with — I was going to say comfort, 
but that is not the case, for the musquitos and other more 
poisonous insects will not let me rest. I fear and dread them 
more than I do the wolves and catamounts who will not approach 
the fire. 

Sunday, 5th. — Most of the country here is covered with pine; 
in some places oak is the prevailing timber. The soil is poor, 
except in a few spots, and there is scarcely any signs of civiliza- 
tion. In the afternoon, came to a farm house where I stopped a 
short time. I always avoid, if possible, stopping at the resi- 
dences of slave owners, which I know by the negro cabins or 
quarters — they are generally secessionists ; but non-slave own- 
ers I find nearly always to be either indifferent on the subject, 
or possessing Union sentiments, but they never express them 
except in their own homes, or to persons they knew to be Union 
men. The people here informrd me that three men who had lived 
in their neighborhood, were hung by the regulators a short dis- 



21 
tance west of that place, while searching for lost cattle. It seems 
that when the regulators came up to them, they were lost in the 
woods, and in their confusion could not give such an account of 
themselves as was deemed satisfactory to their captors. About 
noon, came through a little place called Louisville. Distance, 
27 miles. 

Monday, 6th. — A description of the face of the country trav- 
eled through one day, will answer for most others. I always 
started at an early hour, about 3 a. m., and rested an hour or 
two in the middle of the day, sleeping in the shade of the tall 
pines. The deep sand I found in many parts of Texas, that 
fatigued me so much, is here exchanged for swamps and low 
lands covered with water. The spring is unusually wet. The 
days arc always hot and oppressive, and the nights damp and 
chilly, sometimes cold ; and although I sleep with a light over- 
coat on, frequently get cold at night, and wake at short intervals 
to throw a few pine knots on the declining embers. My overcoat, 
and satchel containing a few articles of clothing and a little corn 
meal, seem to get heavier as the day advances. They fatigue 
me much in carrying. 

At noon I reached Washington, Arkansas, and took dinner at 
the hotel. The country around for three or four miles is com- 
posed of plantations and farms, and a little of the land is im- 
proved. The town is very pretty, (the trees make it so,) and for 
Arkansas, is a large place, but in Ohio it would be a small vil- 
lage. This county has furnished one company of about 60 men'; 
they left two days before I arrived. I remained here an hour. 
While passing a plantation about three miles from Washington, 
two men came out of the house and insolently questioned me as 
to my destination and place of residence. All the authority or 
warrant they had, was that of superior numbers ; their compan- 
ions remained near the gate. I did not gratify them by relating 
my full intentions. I gave them my last place of residence, and 
told them I was going to Arkadelphia. They then went back to 
the house and I continued my walk. 

Fifteen miles north-east of Washington I came to the Little 
Missouri Valley, and after going through the swamp, a distance 
of five miles, by an unfrequented track, came to the river just at 



22 
dosk; and collecting some dry wood, soon had a blading fire'. 
The air is very damp and chilly. iSTear this place is a rude slab, 
in memory of a traveler who was murdered on the spot last year 
for his money. Distance traveled, 35 miles. 

J^ust as I was about to stretch myself on the ground for the 
night, a man dressed in the uniform of a rebel soldier, came 
within a few rods of my fire, and asked permission to approach, 
which I granted. He said that he was trying to overtake his 
company, M'ho were on their way to Little Rock, there to join 
the regiment at that place, when they were to go to Virginia, as 
he said to take Washington. He had remained behind to make 
some provision for his family. He had no matches to light a 
fire, nor anything to eat, and it was too dark to cross the river. 
He gladly accepted my invitation to stay by my camp-fire, and 
partake of my scanty fare. He said he did not know what he 
should have done if he had not seem my fire, as it brightly shone 
and guided his steps through the dark and dismal swamp. He 
told me the reason he volunteered was because he believed Lin- 
coln intended to free all the slaves, and then establish a mon- 
archial government ; he had been told so by responsible men, 
and firmly believed it. I told him these reports were all false, 
that Mr. Lincoln had no such intentions ; and our conversation 
then turned upon other subjects. 

Tuesday, Tth. — This morning we forded the river as soon as it 
was light enough to see. While waiting for daylight, I boiled 
some rice in a tin cup, which we had for breakfast. I procured 
two pounds at Lewisville. I find it impossible to carry much 
besides the few articles which I am obliged to retain. The sol- 
dier continued with me for about 15 miles, when we reached a 
settlement where he got a horse in order to overtake his company 
before night. This part of the State is a little thicker settled 
than it has been for most of the distance heretofore ; but I would 
rather it were a complete wilderness. To-night ray place of 
camping is on higher ground, under the tall pines ; it is more 
pleasant than in swamps, which are always damp and chilly, and 
full of unpleasant odors. I call it camping but that is too re- 
spectable a name for the way in whica I spend the nights. I 
build a fire of pine knots and chunks, which are profusely scat- 



23 

tered around ; always collecting a lot of them with which to 
replenish the fire during the night. If I have anything to eat, 
(which is not always the case) I eat it, and then stretch myself 
on the mud or sand as the case may be, with feet to the fire, and 
soon drop off into an uneasy slumber, like a watch-dog, with one 
eye and ear open, while the incessant din made by the denizens 
of the forest, is ringing in my ears. Distance, 35 miles. 

Wednesday^ 8th. — This forenoon I reached Arkadelphia; and 
here I saw the company to which the soldier belonged who staid 
with me Monday night. It seems he had informed his captain of 
my having contradicted the lies which he, in his ignorance, so 
firmly believed. It being within the corporation limits of Arka- 
delphia, the soldiers could not arrest me on their own responsi- 
bility ; but had previously made the necessary arrangements to 
have me taken in hand by the city authorities ; so that as soon as 
I reached the place, I was accosted by a military officer of the 
town, who said I was a prisoner. He delivered me into the 
hands of the city marshal, who took me into the court room, 
which was up stairs, for safe keeping. Being very hungry, I told 
the marshal I would like to get something to eat, and he went 
with me to a grocery where I purchased a few cakes ; but as 
they were then ^eady for the trial, I had no time to eat. After 
calling the court to order the soldier was sworn and examined, 
but as he did not adhere strictly to the facts, it gave me the op- 
portunity to deny the correctness of what he said. After ex- 
amining the soldier, one of those present made a short speech, 
alluding to Abolitionists, and the necessity of caution on the part 
of the South. Here some one in the back part of the room, said 
that if I was from Connecticut I must be hung ; he thought I 
was from that State. I was then permitted to say a few words. 
I told thera I thought they were acting very ridiculous ; that 
their witness was so much excited then, and had been while with 
me, that he did not know what he was about, or what was said to 
him. I then, by questioning him made him admit actions that 
proved he was absent minded, and forgot things that were given 
to his charge. I told them I had always been in the habit of 
minding my own business, and thought it a hard case if a person 
wuder such circumstances could not travel unmolested. The wit? 



24 

ness was then dismissed, the court room cleared, and they mi- 
nntely examined the contents of ray satchel, and also my coat- 
lining. They wished to know how I was regarded where I lived 
in Texas, and I showed them a personal notice in a Texas paper, 
which seemed to produce a favorable impression. I was then 
conducted out of the room while my fate was being decided. I 
thought this a good opportunity to dispatch the cakes which I 
had put in my pocket ; for if I was liberated I would then lose 
no time by stopping to eat ; and if hung, I would not go on a 
long journey hungry. In a few minutes I was recalled and lib- 
erated, and my satchel and overcoat handed back. An old gen- 
tleman privately told me that I was still in danger of being hung 
by the Washington company ; he advised me to get out of their 
way ; he told me what route to take in order to avoid them. 

As it was necessary for me to follow a public road for four 
miles, I secreted myself on the side of a hill or small mountain 
near town, from which I could see the soldiers passing and re- 
passing, and when the road became clear I moved on again ; 
keeping a sharp lookout in order to fall back into the woods if 
they should approach. Four miles from Arkadelphia I crossed 
a fork of the Washita river, and took a left hand road, which 
was quite unfrequented. Seeing a small cabin in the centre of a 
cultivated patch of ground, I went over to it, and found it occu- 
pied by an old widow lady with a son and daughter. The young 
man was about 24 years of age. He told me that the last elec- 
tion for secession was conducted secretly or else Arkansas would 
have been for the "Union, stronger than ever. I stopped but a 
few minutes. The road soon branched out into numerous cattle 
tracks, which only served to bewilder me. I kept a northerly 
course regardless of them, and camped in this rocky and moun- 
tainous wilderness after accomplishing but 15 miles. 

Thursday, 9th. — I arose at an early hour, and boiled some rice 
for breakfast before daylight. Followed an old untrodden road 
in the morning, which kept a northerly course ; but at the foot 
of a small mountain I lost it, I continued to the top of the 
mountain, when another appeared immediately before me still 
larger, with a deep valley between. In this way I crossed four 
mountain ridges running east and west, each larger than its pre- 



25 
decessor, thinking every one to be the last. The sides of them 
were rugged, very steep, and covered with a small, tough, vine- 
like weed, which concealed the loose rocks and made my progress 
slow and hazardous. When on the summit of the fourth ridge, 
a long narrow valley, running east and west, with another ridge 
beyond, was again before me. I was in despair ; but pressed on 
down the steep, frequently falling aud rolling over. In this val- 
ley, as in all the others, is a mountain torrent of considerable 
size from the late heavy rain, which I had to ford. The water 
was very clear. Most of the rocks over which they ran were a 
rotten slate. Near the stream I found a road, which followed 
the course of the valley. I knew it led to Hot Springs, through 
which place I wished to go ; but which section of the road must 
I take ? I followed its eastward course for a mile, when it seemed 
to bear a little to much to the south ; so I turned around and 
followed its westward course four or five miles, when it doubled 
the mountain and led off south, I then knew I was right at first^ 
and turned and retraced my steps. I had the same creek to 
wade several times. I here met a young man and his wife going 
south. I was surprised and delighted to see any one in this wild 
region. We sat down in the shade to rest and converse. Our 
conversation naturally led to the war, when he said they (the 
secessionists) wanted him to join them, but he "was not going 
to fight for their niggers." 

The timber in the valleys here is of various kinds, but princi- 
pally pine ; the mountains are scantily covered with pine and 
oak trees, that decrease in size towards their summits. There is a 
coarse mountain grass in some places, rather scattered and scanty ia 
growth, but it is the first grass of any kind worthy the name, that 
I have seen for two years, although I have traveled much through 
the South during that time. I felt grateful for it when I thought 
of the deer that so often bounded through the woods at my ap- 
proach. 

Soon after reaching the place where I first struck the road, it 
gradually turned towards the North; and I soon came to the 
Washita river, and crossed it in a canoe kept by a family who 
lived near by and cultivated a small piece of land. Near the 
ferry I saw an old gentleman who seemed quite intelligent. He 



26 
was very indignant towards the political leaders of the State for 
conducting the election secretly. 

My Camp to-night is at the foot of the mountains. The pines 
here are unusually fine ; many of them 60 feet in height from the 
ground to the first branches, and will average 2^ feet in diameter 
for that length. The tempest is raging fearfully in the mountains ; 
and the wind rushes through the tall pines with a deafening roar ; 
the lightning is very vivid and frequent ; and the peals of thunder 
sound like heavy artillery as they reverberate through the moun- 
tain gorge. To-night I felt more terror and dismay on discover- 
ing that I had but one match, and that not a very good kind, than 
I have heretofore on this journey. What would I do if it failed* 
or the wind blew it out ? By extreme caution I succeeded in ig- 
niting a few dry twigs and leaves, and now have a blazing fire of 
pine knots, that burn like tar. I have protected it as much as 
possible with chunks of dead timber, that it might not be put out 
by the torrent. Distance traveled, 36 miles. Distance accom- 
plished 23. 

Friday, 10th. — Passed through Hot Springs this morning. It 
is a small village in a wild and mountainous country ; most of the 
buildings are boarding-houses for invalids. The steam was ris- 
ing from the boiling springs at the fopt of the rocks. Saw and 
conversed with several farmers in the thinly inhabited country. 
The Union sentiment prevails. But they are men not used to 
taking part in politics. It would now be new to them — and they 
attend to the cultivation of their land. I stop to-night at a farm 
house just before going into another uninhabited region. Had 
many swollen streams to ford ; and was frequently led off the course 
by numerous forks, and winding roads. There is no road the di- 
rection I wish to go. I have been obliged to take a circuitona 
route in order to avoid the most dangerous part of Ihe State. 
Distance traveled 29 miles. Distance accomplished, 24 miles. 

Saturday, 11th. — My route to-day was down a narrow valley 
with two mountain ranges on each side. The country is uninhab- 
ited. This morning I crossed a small stream, scarcely perceptible 
among the rocks ; its course down the valley was winding; and, 
as I advanced, it was increased rapidly in size by other streams 
from the mountains, until reaching the magnitude of a river. I 



27 
forded it many times through all its stages of size. Met two 
young men late in the day, with bundles on their backs ; they said 
they were stage drivers. When they found out my destination 
they were quite free in expressing their Union sentiments. One 
of them denounced the disunionists in no very chaste language ; 
they had barbarously treated one of his profession for being a 
Yankee. Camp to-night is in a low wet valley. More rain. 
Got some cornmeal at a small mill, early in the day, and a fish in 
one of the streams. This was a treat not looked for. I baked 
some cakes by the ashes, and boiled the fish in a tin cup. Dis- 
tance, 26 miles. 

Sunday, 12th. — Had several large creeks and rivers to ford to- 
day, and a disagreeable swamp to go through. Surface of the 
country still mountainous, with narrow valleys ; soil, poor. Pass- 
ed through Perryville about 3 o'clock. The town consists of two 
or three log cabins ani a store; they have lumber there for a court 
house. Saw no signs of civilization for seven miles after leaving 
Perryville. Storm came up in the afternoon, and it has been rain- 
ing quite hard ever since. Stay to-night in a log church occu- 
pied by a family. Their fare is not much better than is my own 
except that they have bacon ; this I cannot eat. Little else be - 
sides corn bread and bacon is used in the South West, This diet 
does not agree with me — I get weaker every day. True, I don't 
get enough of it to do me much harm ; but then I can get nothing 
else. Distance traveled, 26 miles. 

Monday, 13th. — Lewisburg is a secession strong hold. I had 
to avoid it. Crossed Arkansas River to-day at the ferry, in a 
canoe. Stopped a few minutes at Springfield ; a small village 
of about 20 houses. Union sentiments prevail in this place. 
Stay to-night at a farm house near the town. Distance 20 miles. 

Tuesday, 14th. — Country traveled through to-day almost unin- 
babited. Soil, poor and rocky. Timber principally oak ; and 
stunted in growth. Had numerous streams to cross, most of 
them swollen to the magnitude of rivers by the recent and severe 
storms. The waters are everywhere high, and no bridges. Had 
great trouble in keeping the proper course, as I had to leave the 
road usually traveled, on account of high water. Stopped at a 
house to make some inquiries, where there were a number of wo- 



28 
men very much terrified ; they told me that a band of negroes 
had escaped aud were in the mountains ;' that they had been 
down in the valley last night and stole some provisions and cloth- 
ing. The men from the neighborhood had gone to hunt them 
with blood-hounds, and the women had collected here for safety. 
They were too much agitated to give me any information in re- 
gard to the road, so I had to keep a northerly course regardless 
of the nnmerous cattle tracks, and faint, and seldom used neigh- 
borhood roads, that only confused me, and led in the wrong di- 
rection. Late in the afternoon got into a swamp where I found 
great difficulty in making my way, on account of the mud, water 
and tangled vines and briars ; but finally reached a deep slug- 
gish, but narrow river; and after wandering up and down, at last 
found a log on which I crossed, and came up the hill to my pres- 
ent camping ground. The night is very cold, and I miss the 
pine knots ; but have some dry, oak limbs. My provisions are 
as scanty as they are unpalatable and unwholesome, and I feel 
quite wornout and feeble ; my shoes too, are nearly dropping to 
pieces. If I had plenty of money and would put on a secession 
face, perhaps I could find some place to stay; but then corn 
bread, bacon and muddy coffee are not fit for a person in my 
condition. Perhaps I would even then be worse off; like a trav- 
eler in Missouri who stopped at a house where I boarded in a 
small village. He was very sick, but was neglected and charg- 
ed an exhorbitant price for board, although he ate but little ; 
and the "niggers" robbed him of a gold watch and other ar- 
ticles. Distance traveled 32 miles. 

Wednesday, 15th. — Had an unusual number of bridgless 
streams to cross, and rugged and steep hills to climb. Came 
through some very fine pine forests. Distance, 30 miles. 

Thursday, 16th. — In the morning, staid half .on hour at a 
cabin to rest and converse with its occupants, a young man and 
his wife. The young man assured me there were many Union 
men in his neighborhood. Bought a little corn bread of them, 
but it is no better than my own. Corn bread is mixed with 
nothing but water ; generally, not even salt ; that would be a 
luxury. Keached White River bottom early ia the afternoon. 
The river two or three days since was remarkably high ; higher, 



29 
I am told, than it has been for many years. Numbers of planta- 
tions are seriously injured ; the water is yet quite deep on soma 
of them. I had great trouble in getting through to within half 
a mile of the river, and can go no farther, and am stopping with 
a pretty wealthy farmer, a strong Union man, (at home.) He 
has no field slaves but does the work himself, by the assistance 
of his sons ; they are now planting corn. The soil here is very 
rich ; and is excellent cotton land, although they tell me it does 
not succeed as well as in the Southern part of the State. Corn 
must be planted wider apart here than it is in Illinois or Ohio, 
and only about two stalks allowed to a hill, otherwise it will not 
yield well. Although this is a very rich soil, corn is not as pro- 
ductive here as it is farther north. The cultivation of fruits and 
vegetables is almost entirely neglected ; neither do they succeed 
so well as in a colder latitude. Distance 21 miles. 

Friday, 17th. — I expected to have got near enough to the 
river to-day to cross ; but the water is still too high. I am very 
sick and have to lie on the damp ground, which is disagreeable j 
there is everywhere such an unpleasant odor from the filth left by 
the flood. My body is geiting sore from the bites of poisonous 
insects. I should go back to the farm house but the men are in 
the field, and these are a suspicious people ; it would not do. I 
will wait until they return from their work. If I tell them I am 
unwell they will be afraid to keep me over night. 

Saturday, 18th. — I succeeded in getting to the river bank 
where there is a ferry, by which I crossed, but on this side had 
to wade through a deposite of slush nearly knee deep, before 
reaching the bluffs. Batesville is two miles from this ferry. It 
is a pretty place and of considerable size. Here I unexpectedly 
saw a company of soldiers, and was agreeably surprised they did 
not arrest me. The soldiers of the South West are much finer, 
or rather more able bodied, than those of the South and South 
East ; but are not well disciplined. Most of the Southern sol- 
diers are rectnited from the wealthy classes ; and are made up 
principally of planter's sons, clerks, and young doctors and 
lawyers of which there is a large supply. They are brave and 
daring, but are more or less enervated by a hot climate and dis- 
sipation. They are unused to labor and will not stand the shock 



3d 

of a charge in battle as well as Northern troops. Many of th'6M 
are very young. Those soldiers from the poorer classes are 
more hardy and able bodied, but most of them do not feel the 
enthusiasm which is felt by those who own slaves or are depen- 
dent upon slavery. The numerous and very absurd stories about 
the cruelties and outrages committed by Northern troops, has 
had the effect of greatly increasing the secession army. These 
ridiculous lies go uncontradicted, and would silence and render 
powerless the Union sentiment, even if it was not suppressed by 
fear. It is everywhere circulated, and believed by many ignorant 
ones, that Southern travelers in the North are murdered in bed 
at night ; that the Northern troops are committing outrages 
upon the persons of defenceless citizens in Missouri and Virginia 
— plundering their property, ravishing their women and murder- 
ing their children. The object of circulating these infamous 
slanders is to strengthen their ranks. The Union sentiment is 
fast dying out in consequence ; and innocent Northern men are 
in danger of being hung by secessionists, and are avoided by 
Union men. 

The country after leaving Batesville, is pretty well inhabited. 
I found so many small neighborhood roads that I got off the 
road, by which I lost four miles; but this is an every day occur-' 
rence, and I take it as a matter of course. This evening I stop- 
ped at a small cabin, and conversed some time with the gentle- 
man who lives there. He is intelligeut and well informed ; 
was born and raised in Alabama. He told me one of his neigh- 
bors lately went down to Batesville, and while there said he was 
still for the Union, whereupon the secessionists arrested him, and 
were about to hang him, but many of his friends were in town, 
and interfered, declaring that if they did not let him go they 
would bring the entire country down and burn the place. They 
I'eluctantly released him. This gentleman assured me that three 
precincts in that part of the county were unanimously for the 
Union ; but as the election had been conducted secretly, they 
had not voted. He regarded the war as a war for the extension 
of slavery ; and said if Lincoln would send an army through that 
part of the State, he would get plenty of volunteers. I stay 
to-night at a farm house 10 miles from Batesville. Small 



3i 

streams are now getting much lower, so that I am not so often 
delayed by them, and can rest occasionally ; but I was delayed 
several hours in crossing White river, and getting through the 
bottom, this morning. Distance traveled, 18 miles; distance 
accomplished, 13 miles. 

Sunday, 19th. — Reached Smithville late in the day, and being 
very tired and sick, sat down on the corner of the square, when I 
was instantly closely surrounded by a company of about 50 sol- 
diers ; some of them were armed with rifles and shot guns, and a 
few with pistols. They were a guerilla-looking set of men ; 
some of them partly into-^icated. One of their number who had 
a sword by his side, came up and seizing me by the arm, said I 
was his prisoner. He was an olTicer ; and was pretty drunk. 
They then conducted me into a drinking saloon, and examined 
the contents of my satchel. I thought it advisable to show 
them the personal notice in the Texas secession paper. While 
residing in Texas I gave instruction, gratis, to a small flute and 
string band, which was organized for our own amusement; and 
one evening we serenaded one of the proprietors of the Carthage 
paper, for which he gave us a complamentary notice. The 
name corresponded with the name in my tax receipts, they said, 
and I was "all right." They told me they had a lot of "niggers" 
and a white man prisoners, on suspicion, in the court house. I 
saw some of their number pacing round the building, on guard. 
I forgot about my b.eing sick, and walked quite briskly for three 
miles, where I now stop for the night, at a farm bouse. The 
people here tell me that in Jackson county there has lately beea 
a large negro insurrection. Distance traveled, 28 miles. 

Monday, 20th. — Staid a few minutes in Pocahontas. Busi- 
ness was much prostrated. Their news-paper was about to be 
discontinued. I here heard of several persons who where hung 
in that part of the State. One young man south-west of the 
place, I learn, was killed for refusing to volunteer. Stop to- 
night at a farm house north of Pocahontas. " Mein host " is a 
secessionist ; he appears to be afraid and suspicious of me. He 
no doubt thinks T have companions on the road. He has heard 
awful stories about the government troops at St. Louis. Dis- 
tance, 29 miles. 



32 

Tuesday, 21st. — The country to-day is more unsettled and 
"wild. Met nine wagons loaded with lead, soon after crossing 
into Missouri. They were whipping up the tired oxen in a 
great hurry; they were afraid the Government troops were after 
them. It is now difiScult and painful for me to travel, especial- 
ly in the mornings when first starting. Stay to-night at a small 
cabin ; the people are very poor. Distance, 22 miles. 

Wednesday, 22d. — As my money is now gone I made the peo- 
ple with whom I lodged a present this morning, for which they 
were thankful and seemed over paid. Met six more wagons 
heavily loaded with lead for the rebels. They were in great haste, 
for it was reported that the government troops from St. Louis 
were in close pursuit. I find the people everywhere excited, and 
the women and children frightened. Ridiculous stories are here 
circulated, and believed by some, that the Federal troops are 
murdering men, women and children indiscriminately. Rain most 
of the day. Stop at a farm house 26 miles from where I staid 
last night. 

Thursday, 23d. — I had more streams to wade than for several 
days ; caught some fish at noon, by standing in the brook and 
<;atching them with the hand. I roasted them for dinner. Stop 
to-night at a cabin after traveling 21 miles. 

Friday, 24th, — It is very amusing, as well as gratifying, to 
notice the efi"ect the occupatioa of St. Louis by Government 
troops, has on the people here. Two weeks ago, I am told, 
Union men were not safe ; now they have increased vastly in 
cumbers. Secession flags have been taken down, and the United 
States flag run ap in their place, by the citizens. A few of the 
most violent secessionists have gone into the mountains, fearful 
that the government troops will be after them ; and others are 
going South ; I met several to-day. The people are so badly 
scared by the absurd stories afloat that I could get no place to 
stay to-night, and have built my camp-fire in a low damp valley ; 
it is too dark to find a better place. I have to do without sup- 
per, but do not feel like eating anything I am in the habit of 
getting here. I regret having been obliged to part with many 
little valuables, during the last few days, for much less than they 
were worth. Distance, 19 miles. 



33 

Saturday, 25th. — Reached Ironton, Missouri, at noon, and am 
row completely worn out with hunger, fatigue and exposure. 
My body is covered with distressing sores from the bites of 
poisonous insects, much enlarged and inflamed by wearing and 
sleeping in clothing saturated with swamp water and rain. Dis- 
tance, 12 miles. 

The spring has been unusually wet ; especially during the 
month of May. Storms were frequent, and some of thera very 
violent. I found the streams everywhere high, and saw no 
bridges during the entire trip ; and but few of the large rivers 
had ferries. Some of them were higher, I was told, than they 
had been for many years. I was obliged to avoid some secessioa 
strong holds and travel through the wildest part of the country, 
making the distance very much farther. 

By the kindness of the officers of the Iron Mountain Railroad 
of Missouri, the St. Louis, Alton & Chicago road, and the 
Pittsburg, Fort Wayne & Chicago road, I was furnished with a 
free pass to Ohio ; but in consequence of extreme soreness and 
weakness was obliged to stop on the way between St. Louis and 
Chicago, Sunday and Monday night, arriving at Chicago on the 
evcnieg of the 28th of May, where I was obliged to remain three 
weeks. 

On reaching the free States, I could not but notice the marked 
difference between the two sections. Business seems to be going 
on in the usual way here; people can come and go as they please, 
unmolested ; and every one seems to enjoy a sense of security 
which is not felt by any in the South. There is truly a reign 
of terror there. Slavery is a power that controls all — is feared 
by all; and men can and do commit deeds of outrage and vio- 
lence in the name of slavery with impunity. 

During my residence in the South I frequently made serious 
blunders, for it is sometimes difficult to discriminate between the 
"niggers " and the white children. Many of the planters in the 
South have female slaves in their household who bear to them 
the relation of wife. There is less inducement there for men to 
marry, and bachelors are numerous among the wealthy. Yet 
they have the assurance to charge the Northern people with 
.amalgamation and negro equality. On one occasion while 



34 

traveling in the South a sudden thunderstorm coming up obliged 
me to put up at the residence of a gentleman of whom I had 

before heard, Judge S . I was acquaintedjwith a son of his, 

who was a merchant in an adjoining town. The judge was a 
fine looking old gentleman, and a man of considerable influence 
in the county ; he had been a widower for a number of years. 
A little boy came out to assist in putting 'away the horse ; 

I asked him if Judge S was his father. He said he was. 

When we had put away the horse and carriage, we went into the 
honse. The Judge was the only free (I will not say the only 
white) person living at home. In the course of conversation with 
the Judge, I alluded to the little boy, supposing him to be one 
of the family. "0, sir," said he, "you are mistaken, that is a 
nigger." Yet the little boy told the truth. Beside him, too 
stood a little girl, with very fair skin, auburn hair and blue 
eyes. She too, waa a "nigger" slave, and a daughter of the 
Judge. At his death they were to be sold, and the proceeds 
divided among his children by his while wife. This is a very 
common feature of their institution. 



NEW PHILADELPHIA OHIO, July 2d, 1861. 
The undersigned citizens of Ohio, are acquainted with Mr. A, 
E. Mathews, the author of the foregoing narrative, and beliere 
him to be a man of truth and veracity, and as such cheerfully 
reconamend him to the favorable consideration of the public : 

G. W. McIlyainb, 
A. T. Ready, 
DA\^D Judy, 
Andrew Patrick, 
John Laughead. 
D. W. Stambauqh, 
J. T. Cramblit, 
H. T. Stockwell, 
John Judy, 
C. F. EspicH, 
J. J. Robinson, 

I. RiCKSECKER, 

Sam'l Fertio, 
Wm. Welty. 



8 >j 



by 



'-e-o^ 







^0 






















s^ .**. 














v^^ 



'. %^<^ :^M:> \^^^^^ ''*^^'*' ^%^^^ •''' 

O \ 












oV 



•^ -n.o^ : 



'bv 


















.}5°^ 



^3 ' 










_ _ J'7SgE-.n^iruT.SF-'»=.£iS?g^£iSltoijBi5^Sgiy!^ ^__ _. 

'-:r::r/---3:;H'-:.fn!iH::Hnii»ir!'fit;HZ°l£?^:sar!%£:s^^ 
:l■^3■.M■EiHiJL■iiiIiS^i13^:i.i'iii;SU5S&Ji^^3S™^^ 
=T-iJj:n:V.=«=3--»-«"!>»?!«"r-"H's!fell:=j2:rirrfras!isri'H!E3^4?^^^ 

^ !iii;min!m:!tBgffl]^!iirfl^CTsaaml!iaiiMffln^ 




